The Lander Pant - Round 2

1.28.2018

It's been a couple weeks since I finished my first Lander Pant and those weeks gave me some much needed time to think about what modifications I wanted to make to future pairs.  Most of my fit concerns were with the crotch, button fly, and waistband areas.  I found the waistband a bit tight and restrictive for my taste and I was concerned about some pulling at the fly making it look like I was about to bust out of the pants.  After trying my first pair on a couple times, I also became concerned that the the crotch was a tad too short for me so I delved into the world of of YouTube videos dealing with measuring crotch length and making needed adjustments and I found this one particularly helpful.  As it turns out, based on my measurements the crotch was an inch too short for me, but to be on the safe side I ended up only adding 1/2 an inch total to the crotch (1/4 to the front and a 1/4 to the back).  I also figured that some of the pulling could be address by adding an extra button to the fly and that actually seems to have worked really well.
Well, not at first since I accidentally added 2 extra button holes initially because I wasn't paying attention and then I had to unpick 3 buttons holes to fix the spacing issue.  Let's just say that there's some unintentional denim distressing around the fly.  Another change that addressed some of my concerns is that I made this version out of some stretch Cone Mills denim, (purchased from here) which is far more forgiving than non-stretch twill when it comes to fit issues.
In an effort to keep some of that stretch around the waistband I cut the waistband with the stretch going around my body, but then I chickened out and interfaced the waistband (as recommended by the pattern), essentially negating the stretch.  I was worried that without the interfacing on the waistband it may not hold up well with wear, but now that I think about it, I probably should have just left it off because I've made several Birkin Flares without an interfaced waistband and they've held up great.
Lastly, I opted to leave out the pocket lining in an attempt to reduce some bulk and instead just finished the top portion of the pock with bias binding that I then folded over and sewed down.  It worked out great and this is probably a modification that I'll continue with on any future pairs that I make.
As for the fit, the pattern is well-thought out in that it includes a larger seam allowance on the outside of the pants so that you can try the pants on and adjust the fit as needed.  I hemmed and hawed about how fitted to make these pants and in the end opted for a fit that's not super fitted.  I slimmed out the hips a little bit but left the larger seam allowance on the leg to preserve the wide leg look.  I'm still trying to decide whether I should have gone with a more fitted hip but I can definitely say that these are incredibly comfortable to wear - something that I couldn't say about my first pair.  And I may officially be an old lady, but I do like my pants comfortable.

3 comments:

  1. So, I haven't been the biggest fan of this pattern up until now. But I love these! They are the first pair that I've seen that makes me want to buy the pattern. I think most versions I've seen have been tighter, but this is more flattering and looks comfy to wear.

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  2. These are fabulous! I like them better in this stretchy fabric with roomier hip and leg than in the tighter version, I think it's honestly more flattering, more a sailor pant. These look like something I'd wear all the time. And if you're an old lady, well, you're a very fashionable old lady.

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  3. These look great on you! I hadn't considered making the landers in a stretch woven...

    Does the waistband on these feel the same as the other pair you made since you interfaced it after all? I have a pair of Ginger jeans that I used a non stretch interfacing on, and I definitely can't eat a big meal in them :) Normally I use tricot interfacing which is a bit stretchy.

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